Sunday, March 30, 2008

Fame, Body fluids, Bathtubs, and Bumper Stickers

My life has been a mixture of interesting observations and experiences recently. Here are just a few of my tales...

1. Last week I went out to a cafe with some of my classmates for a drink. As I was drinking hot chocolate, M---, my classmate from Cyprus, whispered, "Look! That is an actor. He is on TV. I can't remember what TV show he is on, but he is Serbian actor." Once M--- pointed him out, I did realize he looked familiar. However, I do not watch much Serbian television. I'm not sure whether I recognized him from my brief glimpses of random Serbian televisions shows, or if he is one of the actors whose appears in the Kosovo is Serbia ads that I see at least once a week in one of the buses. We joked about taking our napkins or menus and asking him to sign them, but we decided it was a bad idea since we didn't know his name, his television show, or his language. So instead, we just relished in the fact that were sipping our hot chocolate in the same cafe as a Serbian actor.

2. Not quite as lovely, was one of my bus rides home last week. After standing for the first, twenty minutes of the ride, I snagged a seat. I was just sitting there congratulating myself on my ingenious timing in picking a bus that eventually had open seats when I heard a retching noise. I looked down on the ground to see that there was a trail of liquid running back and forth along the aisle. I then realized that I had chosen to sit behind a girl who had spent the last ten minutes of the bus ride vomiting. After suppressing my own urge to vomit, I looked down to make sure there wasn't any chance of the vomit running backwards towards my feet. I was in luck since the floor between our seats was divided by some sort of metal partition. The girl continued to vomit until she got off the bus two stops later. Of course, when I got off at my bus stop I made sure to go to the opposite door to avoid the river of vomit. It was a bit further, but well worth the few extra steps.

3. Now for something a little cleaner: Last week I resorted to doing some emergency laundry in my bathtub. Actually, I started out doing it in my sink and then switched to doing it in the bathtub, but that is a completely different story. I got down on my hands and knees and scrubbed and scrubbed my clothes. The end results: an aching back, some sore knees, a lot of wet clothes that resembled cleanliness, a long search for places to hang the wet clothes, and new sense of respect for women around the world without washers.

4. All throughout Europe cars have bumper stickers that proclaim their national identity (The most common is an oval bumper sticker with the country's recognized abbreviation). Serbia is no different. Since my arrival, I have seen them everywhere. Not every car has one, but my guess is that 3 out of 5 cars have one. One interesting thing I have noticed is that there is two different abbreviations for Serbia: SRB and SCG. The SRB is the new abbreviation for Serbia, whereas the SCG refers to the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro (which was dissolved in 2006). Some people (and their cars) have not gotten the memo that the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro no longer exists (rendering SCG an invalid country code), or they just haven't bothered to update their bumper stickers to reflect the new country code/abbreviation (SRB). Perhaps even more interesting than this dilemma is the fact that within the last two weeks I have noticed several SRB bumper stickers that are accompanied by the McDonald's golden arches and logo "I'm lovin' it". I'm sure the bumper stickers were something given out by the McDonald's in as a value meal prize or special advertisement of some sort, but it strikes me as odd that I have noticed several of these stickers within the last two weeks seeing as how 2 of the 3 McDonald's in Belgrade have not yet reopened since they were vandalized (in the wake of Kosovo's declaration of independence). I'm not sure how long the McDonald's bumper stickers have been out there. My observational powers aren't always the sharpest -- the bumper stickers might have been distributed years ago (Obviously, only sometime since the abbreviation change that occurred in 2006).

In other news, I continue to have daily sightings of the dog in the window that I referred to in an earlier post. Although, last week I saw him standing up in the display window and barking for the first time.

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Just your average update

I am still working on some blog entries about my trip to Sarajevo and some other recent events, but I thought I would just write a quick random update. I know that Belgrade has been making it in the news recently in the U.S. which is a far cry from when I first arrived and most people in the U.S. weren't exactly sure where Serbia is located.

Things are in a state of limbo right now here. The government coalition dissolved. The new elections on May 11th will determine which way Serbia will head -- towards European integration or isolation. Tomorrow another protest will be held for Kosovo. I'm not sure how big the turnout will be. Two of the three McDonald's in the city are still shut down (they closed after they were broken into, burnt, and vandalized after Kosovo's declaration of independence). I'm not sure when they will open again (not that I have visited any of them since my arrival or plan on visiting them anytime soon). I guess they are waiting for things to calm down and blow over.

During the big Kosovo protest in Belgrade (on Thursday, February 21), I camped out at my friends' apartment. They live in the center of the city and have a television. I don't have a television or radio in my apartment so my access to the news is limited. It seemed like a better idea to be with them so I could sit with them and watch the news. We ended up keeping the news muted on the television in the background while we watched a movie on the laptop. We would take short breaks from the movie to see updates on the news. They broadcasted the entire protest on several of the Serbian television channels. The broadcasted the speeches given at the protest by politicians, famous artists, and others. We watched people streaming down the streets as they went from the protest in front of the Parliament building to the religious service at the church. We stuck our heads out the windows and watched as people walked down the streets with their flags and banners. We saw a bank window get smashed in, but some young men as they walked. Of course, I'm sure many of you watched the news unfold about the attacks on the embassies and stores in the U.S. while we watched it on our television in Belgrade. It was a reminder of the existence of anti-American sentiment within Serbia amongst some people. I was sure the next few days to keep my English to a minimum in public.

Yesterday Women in Black had a street performance and women's peace march. It was actually the street performance and peace march we had planned to do last Saturday. Last Saturday was March 8th, International Women's Day. Women in Black's planned street performance and women's peace march were banned by the government citing safety concerns. It was a sad reflection of the state of things here that we were banned from having a celebration of International Women's Day (On a side note, International Women's Day is a very different holiday here than in the U.S. Men give their wives and mothers gifts, flowers, and chocolates. It's sort of like a mix between Valentine's Day and Mother's Day.) Women all throughout the world gathered to have celebrations, but we were forbidden. So, we rescheduled the events for this Saturday and were determined to do them with or without government permission/police protection (We had police protection and were able to do the peace march).

In less serious news, I spent several hours yesterday doing some laundry in the bathtub. It made me grateful to be born in an era of washers. It is definitely not something I want to make a habit of doing. Of course, I then had to try to find spots throughout my apartment for everything to hang to dry. Some of my clothes are hanging outside on my small balcony and I am just praying that the pigeons don't find them a nice place to nest or use the bathroom. I've hung clothes up to dry outside in the U.S., but I don't remember ever having this fear of them being soiled by birds before I even get to wear them. Maybe it is all the time I put into handwashing them that makes me so concerned, or perhaps it is the fact that several mornings I wake up to hear a pigeon right outside my window.


I also managed to get lost once last week on my way to class. I thought I was done getting lost, but apparently not.


On Friday night, I was buying something from a kiosk and the worker told me my Serbian was excellent. I think he was trying to flirt with me or charm his way into me buying something more than my original request. At this point he asked me another question, but some child walked by screaming so I couldn't hear what he said. So, then before I could stop myself, I said mande? (a word in Spanish that is the equivalent of pardon, or can you repeat that). That quickly my so-so Serbian returns to that crazy Englospanbian (my unique hybrid of English, Spanish, and Serbian). One step forward, two steps back?

Monday, March 3, 2008

Fifteen Years since the Crimes in Štrpci

Since I haven't had time recently to post anything (although I have lots to share), I thought I would post this account of my first visit to a site where crimes were committed with Women in Black. It is something I wrote for Women in Black, but thought I would share it with all of you. Keep checking the blog for future postings (there will be new ones eventually).

On February 27, 2008 I joined a group of Women in Black activists on a bus from Belgrade to Štrpci to commemorate the crimes committed there fifteen years ago. There were Women in Black activists from Leskovac, Velika Plana, Belgrade, and Niš on the bus. We were joined by activists from other human rights organizations including the Helsinki Committee for Human Rights in Serbia, the Humanitarian Law Center, and the Youth Initiative for Human Rights. We were also accompanied by journalists from print, electronic, and televised media.

We were all travelling to visit the site of the crime committed on February 27, 1993. Fifteen years ago 19 people were kidnapped from a train at the Štrpci Station and subsequently murdered. According to documentation of the Belgrade office of Serbian Railways (formerly Yugoslav Railways), representatives of Serbia, Yugoslavia, and Yugoslav Railways knew of the plan to kidnap non-Serb travelers who were citizens of Yugoslavia.

Republika Srpska soldiers stopped train number 671 which was traveling from Belgrade. There was an armed group with Chetnik insignias aboard. In the Štrpci train station, 25 masked men entered the train and, with the help of the Chetniks already on the train, took some travelers. They tied them up with wire, took them off the train, and led them to a garage in Sasa, not far from the banks of the Drina. Many shots were heard, enough to kill every person in the garage.

This was my first trip with Women in Black to visit a site where crimes were committed. As we sat on the bus, I wondered what it would be like. I tried to prepare myself for the onslaught of emotions I was sure to feel. First, we stopped along the way at the town square where we were joined by family members of the victims. Many of the family members and activists warmly greeted each other – it was obvious that a relationship of trust and solidarity existed between them. We stood at the town square with the signs we had brought. Among the signs were ones proclaiming that “We will not forget” and a sign in which the names and ages of the victims were written. I read the names on the sign letting them wash over me as I tried to grasp the enormity of the events that took place fifteen years ago: Esad Kapetanović, Ilijaz Ličina, Fehim Bakija, Šećo Softić, Rifet Husović, Sead Đečević, Ismet Babačić, Hail Zupčević, Adem Alomerović, Rasim Ćorić, Fikret Memetović, Favzija Zeković, Nijaz Kajević, Muhedin Hanić, Safet Preljević, Džafer Topuzović, Jusuf Rastoder, Zvjezdan Zuličić and Tomo Buzov. The youngest person killed was only 16 years old.

After the vigil in the town square, we went to place a flower wreath at the construction site of the monument being built for the victims. We then headed to the Štrpci train station. We got off the bus before reaching the train station so that we could walk the 2 kilometers up the mountainside on a winding dirt road leading us to the train station. We made the walk in silence carrying our signs and the second commemorative flower wreath. When we arrived at the train station, we began to assemble ourselves and distribute the signs. We waited for the train to pass by at 3:58 pm just as it had 15 years ago. Today it passed by the train station without stopping. The Štrpci train station is now abandoned; it is rarely used.

The emotions of the day were overpowering. As we stood on the mountainside, I couldn’t help but be struck by the natural beauty that surrounded us. It seemed wrong for there to be so much natural beauty in a place where such tragedy occurred. The contrast between the beauty and the tragedy was overwhelming. The beautiful day and scenery did not fit the occasion. My first experience visiting a site where crimes were committed with Women in Black was a powerful one. It is something that will never leave me. The experience only cemented my belief in the importance of these trips and Women in Black’s mission. The media coverage brought by Women in Black’s vigil and commemoration service served as a reminder to the general public of the crimes committed amongst a society eager to forget. However, I felt the most important impact of this event existed in the support and solidarity Women in Black offered to the victims’ families. The relationships established and cultivated gave me hope amidst the current turmoil in Serbia.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Culture Shock -- Phase II


Katie, Tory, and I have all decided we are in phase two of culture shock. As Katie, pointed out this means we have been here (the Balkans) long enough to be in phase two. She said it was something to be celebrated. This is the phase where the rose-colored glasses come off and you see all the negative things in a culture and your own culture becomes idealized (or at least that is my slant on the definition I got from Wikipedia). It is nice to know that these emotions are common enough to have made it to Wikipedia and I am not alone in my struggles to adjust to a new culture. It's weird to be in this phase. I realized that this is about the time you head home if you are doing a study abroad program in a different culture.

My feelings toward the culture here are so ambivalent. I don't hate it here. In fact, most days I think I like it. I can even admit that on days like today when there have been massive demonstrations in the streets and I have to take precautions to avoid being noticed as a foreigner (or even worse as an American). Even with all of that there are things here that I already appreciate. Today after my language class I went out for a drink with my classmates. Most of them sat and moaned about how much they hate it here. It was frustrating. I’m wondering if they are all in phase two. Some of them have been here for the same amount of time as me and others for longer periods of time. It made me think – is it possible to get stuck in phase two? I feel like it could be, especially for people such as me who are prone to a healthy dose of realism (which some of my friends choose to label as cynicism). This made me a little nervous. I don’t want to be one of those people who can is sits and thinks about the superiority of my own culture while sitting in another country. Although I think it would be difficult for me to bask in the superiority of US culture since I personally dislike so many things about that culture (lifestyle and governmental policies), I do see where it would be possible for me to find a sense of superiority within my own personal culture and beliefs. I think it would be very easy for me to just uproot myself from my little bubble in the US only to recreate that bubble within Serbia and never have to truly open myself up to the new ideas and new culture here. In my panic of being the person who gets stuck in phase two, I was wondering if there was some way I could skip over it – if there was some way I was guaranteed to do it right so I don’t get stuck here (here being phase two, not Serbia). I realize that is probably a lame idea since phase two of culture shock is an important step to making it to the next stage(s) of culture shock. I am waiting for that stage where I feel at home in the new culture and have a sense of belonging. I’m not sure if that is the third phase, the fourth phase, or a non-existent phase. Everyone’s definition of culture shock seems to vary after the first two stages. I take that to mean that stage one and two are classifiable and inevitable, but anything after that is what you make of it (my conclusion here could be completely wrong, but it seems to work for now).

So, here I am grappling with letting myself be really open to this new culture and let the good things sink in without letting the bad things overwhelm me. I’m not sure what that means and how that looks, but I am determined not to get stuck in phase two.

Friday, February 15, 2008

Sarajevo Museums

Just a quick word about Sarajevo museums. I will post another entry soon to share more about my Sarajevo weekend.

Tory, Katie, and I decided we wanted to go to a Sarajevo museum on Saturday (since Belgrade museums were largely unsuccessful -- refer to February 6 entry Museums in Belgrade). We first decided to go to the bridge museum; the museum that is placed by the corner where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assasinated in 1914 (leading to World War I). We were hoping it would still be open since we were getting a late start. We arrived at the museum to find it closed. It wasn't closed due to the time, but for unspecified reasons it was closed for the day. There was a sign saying it would be closed on Saturday and would resume normal working hours on Monday. I guess we picked the wrong day to come (although it was the only day we could come).

We then headed to the art museum. This was a much more successful venture. It was free. We spent our time looking around. There were many hidden nooks and crannies which actually contained whole rooms (small rooms, but whole rooms) of art. It was fun to have to search for the art. It was nice game of sorts.

Overall, we had more success with museums in Sarajevo than in Belgrade. I'm not sure if this is some sort of reflection on the two cities or if it is just random luck. I'm sure I could try to find some greater meaning in this as a reflection of the current political situation, variances in culture, or something else of that sort. However, I'm also not sure it would be an accurate reflection.

My New Orange Coat.

Here's another one of those older entries that never made its way to the blog.

An important fashion update from Belgrade: I now have my own Serbian coat. It is long, warm, and looks like a bright orange sleeping bag with faux fur on the hood. I’m not particularly a fan. The benefits of this coat include: it was cheap (around $12 dollars) and it gets people (the activists at WiB) to quit nagging me about my need for a new coat.

I had no real desire to buy the coat, but everyone at WiB kept insisiting I needed a warmer coat. I thought my coat was doing just fine. After all, it gets cold in Indiana. Well, I was overruled.

One of the activists, S, found me the perfect coat at a little shop close to the train station. The day after Christmas (while Tory and Katie were still here) I went with S to go and purchase it. Katie and Tory were out having some nice, warm beverages while I was at the office finishing up some last minute tasks -- and purchasing a coat. It was orange. They had a creamy, mustard yellow, but there was only one left and it wasn't in my size. So I was stuck with orange. I returned to the office wearing it and everything loved it.

I still don't particularly love the coat, but I concede that the coat is very warm and it was very cold here for a while. In fact, the coat is so warm I only wear it when it is really cold or I start sweating while I stand waiting for the bus.

That's all I have to say about that. I just thought everyone should know that I have made my first step towards a Serbian fashion sense. Let's hope it doesn't go much further. (I don't consider a transformation to a Serbian fashion sense a good thing. Although not everyone has a weird sense of fashion here, I have already seen some odd looks and have heard that sumer will be an interesting fashion show.)

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

A post without a purpose

I don't have any antecdotes or stories for today's post. I just felt like posting a general update.

My Serbian language class continues to grow. We started out as three then became five. Then six. Then seven. Then nine. Then eight. Then nine. People keep rotating in and out of the class. We've been averaging eight students, but the faces change. We seem to have a faithful core of six with some guest appearances by the same 3 students. (There was also another student who dropped by for a week. He will be back in May for another month's lessons.)

Many of our mid-class breaks consist of somebody sharing their latest Belgrade adventure or complaint. I try not to join in on many of these conversations since they seem to turn negative quickly. Of course none of us are from Serbia and for the most part (with one or two exceptions) we have all moved here within the last 6 months. The reasons we come range from volunteering (me), diplomacy (two students are here with a family member who is working at their country's embassy), adventure, and love (this is definitely the majority of the students). Interestingly enough, the persons here for love seem the most distraught at being here. In fact, one of the students just returned last week from visiting her family and friends (in Holland) and happily announced to us that she would be moving back to Holland permanently this summer. Her husband could stay here or come with her, but she was going.

Another student is here from Ireland with her Serbian boyfriend. Every class (she isn't the most faithful attender so this is about 3 times a week) she talks about the things she hates in Serbia, the things she misses about Ireland, and the many ways Serbia doesn't measure up to Ireland. Yesterday she mentioned that she thinks it might be worse for her to come to class since she is then with other internationals who all complain together about their lives in Belgrade. I thought this was ironic since she seems to be leading the mini therapy sessions.

This past weekend we had an activist from Guatemala come and share her personal story and lead us in activities. It was very interesting. It was nice for me since she spoke in Spanish (which was then translated into Serbian) so I actually understood what was going on (most of the time -- there were still times when nobody remembered to translate for her and so we just smiled at each other in confusion). I found that my answers to anyone started coming out in Englospanbian (some new hybrid of English, Spanish, and Serbian). I couldn't get my mind and my tongue to work together to use the right language (Spanish with the speaker, Serbian with the non-English speaking activists, and English with the English speaking activists).

Cooking is fun with my stove. I seem to only be able to get the burners to go on medium high or high. There is no low heat (or at least not as I can tell). I'm also trying my hand at being inventive in using my kitchen utensils. For instance, when you are making rice and don't have pot with a lid a plate can be substituted for the lid. But take care not to keep the plate on too long or it will crack. Also, be open to the possibility that your rice may not turn out perfectly.

This weekend I am going to Sarajevo to visit Tory. I am very excited about this since it will be a nice getaway. I had to leave the country anyway since my 3 month tourist visa is getting ready to expire so I thought it might be nice to make it into a fun thing rather than just another task to complete.